![]() We ease them slightly front and back with the orbital sander during final sanding. Prior to that we profiled every single piece that went out the door. We haven't profiled a door/drawer front edge in three years. We have pretty much gone to square door edges, regardless of style. I use a no-file laminate trimmer bit by Amana tool. ![]() Except for some architectural purists, the client will never notice the small radius and will not complain later of finishing not sticking to a sharp edge. A small radius provides a better edge for finishing and is more forgiving to bumps, especially on white lacquered doors. We use a tiny round over bit and go over all the doors. The overall height comes out more or less dead on (even across multiple operators) after end sanding. We have our jump saw stop calibrated 0.025" long and the rails get trimmed to exact size during the cope. Stiles have a machined edge off the moulder (or planer) and the ends get bumped on the sander. After the doors are assembled all I have to do is bump the end grains with the edge sander. Or I will rip long runs at 2 3/8", run the profile and then run the other side through the shaper with a straight cutter and outboard fence so it is cutting stock down to exact width. ![]() Sometimes I order s4s material at 2 5/16", then the shaper will remove the other 1/16" during the profile operation. How is everyone else doing this? A straight cutter on a shaper seems like it should work. We are starting to do more and more shaker doors and we have been edge sanding the edges but it’s very time consuming and hard to stay consistent on sizes. ![]()
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